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1905-1910: Sleeveless and Barefoot
Annette Kellerman's Unitard
   In the oughts, swimming becomes a legitimate competitive sport for women, ultimately sanctioned by the 1912 Olympics. And sports, along with fashion, help usher in the series of shocks that popularize the one-piece swimsuits.
   A microcosm of these early developments is a popular star of the time, Australian swimming champion Annette Kellerman. Beset with infantile paralysis, Kellerman begins swimming as a therapy in her native Australia. By 1906 she is touring London when asked to swim for the Royal Court. At the time women are expected to wear cumbersome dress and pantaloon combinations when swimming, but Kellerman is an advocate of free movement and ridicules the bathing dress as clumsy and even dangerous. She is advised she must have her legs covered so she improvises by stitching together a leotard and stockings and wears this with no skirt (AK0650). The following year she tours what is now a glass tank diving and swimming vaudeville act to New York.
   In Boston she advances things a step further when she cuts the legs off her "all over bathing unitard" and goes swimming on a public beach (AK0750). She is arrested for indecent exposure, a firestorm of publicity erupts and the charges end up being dismissed. Young lasses are certainly baring their legs in French pinup postcards, but this is a family beach. For Ms. Kellerman, the arrest advances her career...and her cause--the ability to swim freely.
   Hollywood is Kellerman's next stop, where she introduces her tight-fitting body suit to the movies (AK0915). Progressively smaller costumes follow in the early years of the next decade.

Bathing Dress Developments
   What happens on the picture postcard and what happens on the real beach are different, because the exposures on the picture postcard lead the real beach by a decade or two.
   On the real beach, fashion advances slowly but steadily. The bathing dress shortsleeved bloomered, complete with hose and shoes is still to be witnessed (BP0610, PC0920). But the bathing dress is loosing its bloomers, and the new silhouette is called a bathing dress shortsleeved bloomerless, although it is still worn with stockings (JS0810, HK0710-34BS).
   In real life the bathing dress is not as corseted as a comic Gibson Girl, who is too busy looking to care about the wind flashing her hose and garters (PC0712). Absent bloomers, the hose are now in full play and provide an opportunity to draw attention to one's self. This more matronly white-dressed deliberately lifts her skirt to show a small triangle of bare leg above the top of her hose (PC0L76). Teasing the top of the hose can also be "accidental" (PC0640).
   And then there are gals who elect to not wear hose at all, like this suspect (PC0880), and this soaking wet (SB0L10).

Maillot Pantaloon Cheesecake
   On the postcards the models are increasing baring all of their arms, sometimes even exposing their armpits, and baring to various degree their knees, calves, ankles, and feet. Knees? Sure, but the whole leg is in action. Here's Asta Westergaard in a belted maillot pantaloon (GC0L246BS). This industry lass takes her shoes off (VG1L30_573). This one must have found a maillot pantaloon that unbuttons down the front... (VG1030).
   One of the most enduring swimsuit images are several series published by K.V. i. B., of Germany which feature pairs and triplets of the scantily-clad bathing beauties frolicking at the shore (PC086S).

Follies and Spectacle
   During the period between the turn of the century and the first world war a remarkable period of fashion ensued. Much of it would be lost following the great depression but when we look at many of these silhouettes and styles they appear strikingly familiar.
   They have nothing to do with swimwear at this stage of history--their realm is the musical theater and the French postcard.
   One of the themes is what we might call Arabesque, or Egyptian (TM0514), with a special emphasis on metal costumes (TM0510, BW0710, HC1010). Into this realm are the dances of Salome, the Siva Dance of Mata Hari, and other Orientalist influences (TM0512).
   Another theme is the lavish stage spectacle, derivative of the Folies Bergère in Paris and including the Ziegfeld Follies in New York. These productions devote vast attention to costume and dance, and present a haltered, bare-bellied, and occasionally topless performance (GC0L1186). These costumes will inspire swimsuit designers for the next century!

Baring the arms and the feet.
   1906--George Méliès in Paris introduces another cinema special effect--beheading--in The History of Madam Curie.
   1906--Murray's Roman Gardens opens on West 42nd Street, New York, and features naked living statuary posing as nymphs.
   1906--Annette Kellerman invents the bathing unitard.
   1907--Irish-Hawaiian surfer George Freeth visits Redondo Beach in California and performs surfing demonstrations.
   1907--The word brassière enters the American language. The noun is borrowed from the French and refers to a woman's underbodice worn to support the breasts.
   1907--Richard Strauss brings his opera Salome to New York and uproar over the prima donna's "Dance of the Seven Veils" closes the show after one night.
   1907--Florenz Ziegfeld begins production of the Ziegfeld Follies in New York. The Follies is a lavish stage spectacle modeled after the Folies Bergère in Paris, and with vast attention to costume and dance. Salome is one of its showcases. The ideal Ziegfeld girl measures 36-24-38.
   1907--A peep-show version of Fatima performing the Serpentine Dance at the 1893 Colombian Exposition is censored by superimposed parallel lines.
   1907--The Chicago censorship committee is created.
   1907--Swimming star Annette Kellerman is arrested in Boston for wearing a leg-baring one-piece bathing suit.
   1908--In Berlin censorship cards jurisdiction is transferred to the chief of police of each precinct.
   1908--The white slave trade film becomes an established genre. "Fifty girls in chains! See the white slave trade bigger than life!" announces the ads for The Fatal Hour.
   1908--Private baths and swimming pools flourish in London, with one census reporting 3502 private baths and 104 swimming pools in the greater city. Six million people visit annually, 10% of them women.
   1909--Men's bathing costumes are flannel with tops with sleeves and long drawers that clung to the thighs.
   1909--The British pass the First Cinematograph Act, which deals with fire hazards, and create the British Board of Film Censors.
   1909--Chicago government officials decree that insinuations of rape at the hands of white slavers in films must not be rewarded.
   1909--Emergence of the temperance drama, a film which extols the evils of drink, with simultaneously showing the perils of the young girl.
   1909--The NAACP is founded in the aftermath of race riots in Atlanta, Georgia and Springfield, Illinois.
   1910--The first synthetic fiber is produced commercially in the United States--it is viscose rayon made from wood pulp.
   1910--Leon Bakst designs filmy, Orientalist costumes for the Ballet Russes' production of Scheherazade at the Paris Opera.
   1910--First show girls appear nude on stage in Paris. During the teens chorus girls increasingly go topless.
Annette Kellerman
Annette Kellerman
AK0650
AK0650
AK0750
AK0750
AK0915
AK0915
BP0610
BP0610
PC0920
PC0920
Bathing Dress Shortsleeved Bloomerless
Bathing Dress Shortsleeved Bloomerless
JS0810
JS0810
Hamilton King Bathing Dress
HK0710-34BS
Bathing Dress Garters Stockings
PC0712
Bathing Dress Garters Hose
PC0L76
PC0640
PC0640
Bathing Dress Shorsleeved Hoseless
PC0880
Bathing Dress Shorsleeved Hoseless
SB0L10
GC0L246BS
GC0L246BS
VG1L30_573
VG1L30_573
Topless maillot
VG1030
KVIB Maillot pantaloon Germany
PC086S
TM0514
TM0514
TM0510
TM0510
BW0710
BW0710
HC1010
HC1010
Mata Hari
Mata Hari
TM0512
TM0512
Nina Barkis GC0L1186
GC0L1186